You will also need to remove four T10 Torx screws from the sides of the oven (two on each side).
Finally, remove the six #1 Phillips screws in recessed holes on the bottom of the oven.
Once that is accomplished, you should be able to slide the top of the oven off, or at least maneuver it sufficiently out of the way to facilitate the repair.
On the left side of the oven (the side without the controls), you will find a leaf switch that is controlled by the door lever. When the door closes, the door lever is supposed to press down on the leaf switch, closing it. When the door opens, pressure is released off the leaf switch, and it opens. The switch tells the oven's microcontroller whether the door is open or not.
With enough heat cycles, things deform enough that the leaf and the door lever interfere with each other, preventing the closing of the door. Instead of getting pushed down by the door lever, the leaf gets pushed up and back, stopping the door from closing.
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To fix this, use the needle nose pliers to bend the tip of the leaf spring down a bit. You don't have to bend much of the spring -- less than 5 mm (1/4 inch) ought to do. And you don't have to bend it down much. Just enough to clear the door lever. Call it 30 degrees.
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To put the top back on your oven, make sure the slots on it facing the front of the oven slide over the silicon gasket, and it seats properly. Then put all the screws back. Don't forget to replace the crumb tray and the racks and to plug in the oven.
Enjoy your working oven, and hope Breville fixes this design flaw in the next model.